Hello Bill,

So far I have built two of these Ferris Wheels, one for my Son as a birthday present. There is a post on the ACGHS site under “Model Building Tips” for this model. Tom Washeck wrote the article and I found it very helpful building my Ferris Wheels.

In addition I will soon be writing an article for the ACGHS newsletter about the Ferris Wheel build. Of course if your friend has any questions while building it, I’ll be happy to assist.

Best Regards,
Michael D. Foster
ACGHS Editor

Attached are a couple photos that might help.

https://www.acghs.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/IMG_8094-scaled.jpeg

https://www.acghs.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/IMG_8095-scaled.jpeg

Hi Kendrick,

On this website is an Erector Set gallery which shows the box and layout of most sets. Just click on the link below:

Type II Gilbert Erector Sets

https://www.acghs.org/wp-content/gallery/erec_type2cla/erectype2_cla_005.jpg

I hope that helps.

Best regards,
Michael

• This reply was modified 1 year, 7 months ago by Michael Foster.

Hello Gary,

All the sets (both metal box and wood) that contained the (P56G) 110-vol motor came with a vial of oil. This would be in the large sets from 1938 and in the Electric Train Sets through 1942.

https://www.acghs.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/IMG_2303-1-scaled.jpeg

The Ferris Wheel build is the same as in the 8 1/2 set, so here’s the instructions from that manual:

https://www.acghs.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/ferris-wheel-instructions.jpg

https://www.acghs.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Ferris_Wheel_01.pdf

https://www.acghs.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Ferris_Wheel_02.pdf

https://www.acghs.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Ferris_Wheel_03.pdf

Hello Gary,

That’s a great set and rare. The 1933/1934 P56G Motor had the small GILBERT decal on it. I know there are members that make repro decals for the motors, although I’ve never seen one for that motor. Below is a photo of the P56G Motor with a small GILBERT decal on it.

A couple of members that create repro labels is:

Mike Wagner

Greg Briggs

Also, in the back of the club newsletter is a section called, “The Heritage Exchange.” This list standard sources for Erector items, such as repro labels.You could also place a wanted ad on the back page.

Good luck with your project.

Best regards,
Michael

Hello Gary,

Those are very good questions, somewhat difficult to answer because there are different schools of thought on it. I’ll answer according to how I feel about it, but it’s really up to you and what you are planning to do with the sets long-term.

1. Is it better to restore an old set by re-painting everything or leaving it as close to original as possible?

My Opinion: For set’s I’m putting in my collection, I want them as close to original as possible. Collectors in general also want that and those sets will command the best price. Some of my sets might have a “reproduction” part in it to make it “complete,” until I can find an original part for it.

2. Should I reproduce all the cardboard inserts or should I just make sure all the parts are accounted for?

My Opinion: If the cardboard inserts are missing, I always make reproduction ones. Bruce Hansen has a great instruction sheet on doing just that. One should always take inventory and make sure all parts are accounted for. That’s the first thing I do when purchasing a new set for my collection.

3. Should I make sure all the parts are made of the right metal for the year of the set I am putting back together or just mix and match as long as its the correct part?

My Opinion: In a word, “YES.” You always want the correct period and metal part for the set. Again, this affects the value of the set.

4. What’s the best way?

My Opinion: This depends on your own goals for the collection. I tend to be a “purest,” so I want the set to be as correct as possible. For example the photo below is a 1928 No. 7 1/2 White Truck set. This was my Dad’s set he passed down to me. The only thing I did to it was replace the tires with repros, as they had deteriorated over the years and completed it with a P58 motor, my Dad had burnt up. I gently cleaned the parts.

Now for my models that I build, I have a different school of thought. I don’t use any parts from my “collection” for models. Over the years I’ve built a stash of extra parts, or parts that are rusted, not in very good shape. I will clean these parts, strip the paint, remove any rust and repaint them for my model building. Again, it’s a personal choice and there is no wrong way. Below is a 1950s Ferris Wheel I repainted and built. Sometimes I follow Gilberts colors, but on this one I wanted it to be in a patriotic theme.

Hope that helps,
Best regards,
Michael D. Foster

Hello Gary,

That actually depends on your set. The sets from early 1948 came with the manuals featuring the cover picturing the Coal Loader. Later in 1948, the new manual cover pictured a “Happy-Faced Boy” viewing the Giant Power Plant. It had a dark blue background and four-color printing. It would obviously be the largest manual of that period and have the instructions you are looking for. Most likely a difficult manual to find.

Best regards,
Michael